What I have been sewing lately : Changing up the Archer Button Up

Personally, I do not find the Grainline Archer shirt to have the ideal fit. I am slowly working out the best way to alter the pattern. First of all - it needs to be an inch longer through the bodies and in the arms. Secondly I do not like the look of the back with the pleat so I have gotten rid of it entirely. 

 In this version (and all subsequent versions) instead of the two big rectangle pockets I opted for a single pocket with a triangular bottom. In this case the pocket has a batman comic on it. 

Here is how the back looks without the back pleat - much nicer!! I do need to remember add a bit of width through the hips though as my shirts always seem to be too tight in the hips DESPITE the fact that I am sewing sizes bigger then my hip measurement would point to. 

I have completely disregarded the button placement in the pattern and come up with my own - so far my placement has resulted in far less boob gape... For other ladies with this problem you know what I mean! Ultimately it means I have to use 10 buttons every time instead of 8.  

I started sewing these shirts because I wanted to be able to make my girlfriend (who has a small bust and big hips) shirts that she would like and that would fit. The Archer is too loose and a bit boxy so I think my changes are helping. 

I think I am figuring out the details of the pattern and really tweaking it to make it my own - by the time I am done it will be a very very different pattern. Which I like. I also want to add some more width to the front pieces + collar stand to allow wearers to have a bow tie with the shirt. 

My First Grainline Archer top

I have been meaning to sew up an Archer button up for months and months! I honestly was looking for an alternative pattern for a while because I didn't like how baggy and unfitted it looked on some bloggers. Turns out I did not have to worry  as the size I sewed up (6 for bust down to a 2 in hips) was not baggy at all. My first attempt was not at all perfect and there are plenty of changes I will be making for my second and third (already cut out ready to sew).

Even though to my hip measurements I am a 0 in my next copy I will grade the hips as a 6 as these really hugged tight in my hips in an unflattering way. I think the 6 for the bust was right BUT I get major boob gape so the button placement really needs to be reshuffled. I also don't really like how the last button ends up being so close to the bottom - There needs to be the same length beneath the button as there is between each button I think.

I read lot of bloggers wanted their arms to be shorter as they were too long - I had the opposite problem! These are a 1-2cm too short through the arms so I have added extra length for 2 and 3. I do like lots of the details though like the view A sleeve cuffs, the pleat in the back, the back yoke. I found sewing it up really easy following the sew along.

Is it a quick sew? No. 

Is it a fun challenge? Yes.

There is just something satisfying in sewing something you would otherwise need to buy and would cost $50-$150. 

The fabric I used is a beautiful, soft, barely wrinkly, perfect Chambray Tencel in Red from Imagine Gnats Shop.

Pattern is the Archer Button up by Grainline Studios